A journey through time
Perched atop a rocky outcrop above Athens sits a time machine. This isn’t a time machine that will transport us back into the past (although later, up on one of the seven sacred hills, we’ll encounter a 2,400 year old inscription from the citizens of ancient Athens). No, this time machine was the central arbiter of time for Greece, the Balkans and the seas of the eastern Mediterranean, for over half a century.
Founded in 1842 and fully functional by 1846, the National Observatory of Athens occupies a commanding spot atop the Hill of the Nymphs. From this small, cross-shaped neoclassical building, time was set for the whole country and beyond. After Greece gained its independence from the Ottoman Empire, one of the most urgent priorities was a reliable repository of time.
It’s all in the timing
With digital clocks expected to be accurate to the second—if not the millisecond—we take being able to tell the time for granted today. Back in the 19th century it was anything but straightforward. Having the means to properly keep time was deemed crucial for the functioning of society and the growth of the economy; but most importantly to help stimulate the flourishing of Greece's maritime industry.
“Without a reliable timepiece, it’s impossible to accurately establish a ship’s longitude,” Dimitrios explains. “If you don’t know your longitude at night—that is, your position horizontally on the globe; then you’re in the dark. Quite literally. Yet, with your longitude you can use the light of the Pole Star to work out your latitude—and plot your position accurately on a nautical chart."
Inside the observatory building, we find the Meridian line marked by a stone groove, with the original Meridian telescope or transit instrument. This was used to oversee the passage of stars across the Meridian line from 1846 until 1902. “The same star will pass over the Meridian line every 23 hours and 56 minutes,” Dimitrios explains. “This gives us the Sidereal Time, which has to be translated into Mean Solar Time, which is the time we all use in our everyday lives.”
Building a new nation
This prominent city landmark was created by some heavy hitters. The construction of the National Observatory was funded by Baron George Sinas, one of the richest Europeans of his era; while its design was by the Danish architect Theophil Hansen, the leading force behind Athens’ post-independence neoclassical construction boom.
The National Observatory was the first research institute founded in the Balkans and over the years it has generated a wealth of scientific discoveries. “German astronomer and geophysicist Johann Friedrich Julius Schmidt became the Observatory’s director,” Dimitrios explains. “Schmidt spent around 30 years creating the first detailed map of one surface of the moon. It was published in 1878 and referenced by Jules Verne in his 19th century classic Le Periple de la Lune.”
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
Touch the sky
After touring the main observatory building, Dimitrios leads our mixed group of Americans, Brits, Spaniards, Russians and Indians up to Pnyx Hill to encounter a more modern Gautier telescope. Assembled here in 1902, this 8 tonne beast has a 40cm refractor for observing far-flung stars, planets and galaxies.
“This telescope was the most advanced in Greece until the 1950s and for those who know what they’re doing, it’s a powerful research tool,” Dimitrios explains. “It was used for scientific research until the 1980s, including mapping the surface of Mars.”
Eventually though, light pollution made this central Athens location unviable and the National Observatory’s research is now conducted from state-of-the art telescopes on Mount Helmos near Kalavrita and in Kryoneri near Corinth, both in the Peloponnese.
Watching the roof peel back to reveal the night sky above our heads though is quite the experience—like a steampunk James Bond villain’s lair. For such an enormous piece of machinery it seems strange that the eyepiece is so small. But once you peer through it, you’ll forget that your feet are still planted on planet Earth.
Cloudy with a chance of Betelgeuse
Unfortunately, clouds impair our visibility this evening. But Dimitrios tells us that on a clear night, you can see planets such as our nearest neighbour Mercury and Mars, Venus, Jupiter and Saturn; along with distant stars, such as Betelgeuse, a red supergiant in the constellation of Orion, and closer ones such as Arcturus, the brightest star in the northern constellation of Boötes. Sometimes you can also make out the shapes of far-off constellations and even meteor showers or shooting stars, says Dimitrios. He is happy to help identify what we’re seeing… which to the untrained eye can be a bit of a mystery—albeit a breathtaking one.
What’s the verdict?
I’ve long spotted the observatory poking out from the trees atop the Hill of the Nymphs and wondered what went on inside this mysterious building. The tour not only provided the magical experience of peering at the stars through an antique telescope but an understanding of the observatory’s role in Greece’s post-independence history.
- Duration: Tours last approximately one hour.
- Cost: €5 per person on a first-come first-served basis. Group limit is 40.
- Time: Tours operate every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday at 10 pm during summer season. From November, opening hours are 9 pm. English guided tours are available.