Courtesy: Eleni Veziri

These backstreet basement tavernas serve traditional food and drink with a side of Athenian history. Here’s how to find them.

By Stavros Dioskouridis

Head underground—literally—to check out another side of Greek dining.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

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The entrance to Diporto isn't always easy to find, but follow the music.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis