The More the Merrier
Greeks are very inclusive, so Sunday lunches tend to be rowdy group affairs rather than quiet family meals or couples dining à deux. Especially if it's a special occasion like someone's name day or a national holiday. The standard parea (group) lunching at the table next to you will most likely consist of the immediate family, the in-laws, the best-man's family (koubaroi), the children’s godparents (also, confusingly, referred to as koubaroi) and close family friends.
Tastes from the sea with a side order of ancient ruins at Elias fish taverna in Cape Sounion.
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
6 Seaside Sunday Lunch Staples
- Grilled octopus (best accompanied with ouzo)
- Horiatiki (Greek salad)
- Shrimp saganaki (cooked in olive oil, tomatoes, ouzo and feta)
- Kolokithokeftedes (courgette fritters)
- Kalamarakia (fried calamari)
- Dips: Choose from taramosalata, tirokafteri (spicy feta) and melitzanosalata (smoked eggplant). Scoop them up with lightly-grilled pitakia (mini pita breads) or the basket of bread that usually arrives the moment you sit down.
A Word on Wine
A Sunday lunch by the sea without the conversational accelerant of wine (or ouzo)? Unthinkable. Large groups generally order the house wine, called hima, by the kilo or half kilo (miso kilo) in a carafe instead of by the bottle.
Don’t say: Signomi, mallon iparhei mia tripa stin karafa mas (Excuse me, there must be a hole in our carafe).
Do say: Allo ena, parakalo (One more, please).
The Battle for the Bill
When the bill arrives, a lengthy battle of wills usually ensues over who will pay. Even in these financially-strapped times, Greeks will apply their time-honoured powers of negotiation for the privilege of being the one to hand over their credit card. Someone will eventually surrender with the promise of “getting it next time.”
Don’t say: Who’s got a calculator so I can divide the bill?
Do say: Put your wallet away! I’m insulted.
A Tip on Tipping
A 10% tip is generally considered very fair (although not widely practised by locals who usually just round up the bill to the nearest ten—i.e. for a €45 bill, they’ll leave €50).
Who wouldn't want to have a Sunday lunch when it looks like this?
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
Top Athens Riviera Restaurants
Upscale
Ithaki: On a lofty perch above exclusive Astir Beach, this celebrity favourite is hard to beat for high-impact seaside dining (with prices to match).
What to Order: Monkfish meunière with bok choy, scallop and fennel, lobster tortellini with aged gouda.
Labros: A Vouliagmeni institution for over a century; still popular for its nostalgic ambience and stellar bay setting.
What to Order: Grilled barbounia (red mullet), mydopilafo (mussel rice), and Labros’ original fish soup.
Sunshine on Sundays at Ithaki.
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
Mid-range
Garbi: A local favourite with a chic, Hamptons-style vibe, serving up terrific meze along with the best sunsets on the Kavouri seafront promenade.
What to Order: Fish croquettes and shrimp saganaki.
Blue Fish: A fresh arrival from Paros with “feet in the water” charm, specialising in Mediterranean-Japanese seafood.
What to Order: Tsipouro carpaccio and scorpion fish linguine.
Kastellorizo: Classic elegance meets modern seafood, with a front row seat to lively Varkiza pier and the fish market.
What to Order: Chalkida crayfish tails with coriander and lime, gruyère-stuffed Leros squid.
Budget
Aperanto Galazio at N.A.O.B.B.: Bang on the sand (or in this case, fine pebbles), this Varkiza hotspot is eternally popular with yachties and fans of chilled, barefoot dining. Prepare to stay all day.
What to Order: Simplicity rules: go for grilled barbounia, seafood spaghetti and melitzanosalata.
Isalos: Bright and breezy contemporary taverna in the heart of the lively Yabanaki resort, with plenty of space for kids to run off steam.
What to Order: The superior fried calamari, creamy fava and tangy beetroot and yoghurt salad.
Sardelaki me Thea: Watch the yachts jig about on azure Vouliagmeni bay at this informal neighbourhood meet-up point.
What to Order: Baked sardines with tomatoes and parsley, grilled scorpion fish.
