Even if you haven’t been here yet, you’ve definitely seen a photograph of this bar. Stacked to the rafters with colourful, backlit liquor bottles, it’s a Plaka landmark. Something between a dive bar, distillery and wine bar, Brettos has been around since 1909. Grab a seat at one of the wooden barrels and leaf through the encyclopedic menu. Choose from the brandies, 50 flavours of liqueur (ranging peppermint to watermelon), ouzos, rakomelo (hot raki with honey and cinnamon). Of course, you could just go for a glass of Greek wine. But if you’re up for something more complicated, tell the bartenders if you’re a sweet or sour person, what spirits you prefer, and they’ll shake you up a delicious cocktail. 

Tradition is everything here. From the woven chairs to the round blue metal tables to the tree-lined marble terrace, Glykis is everything you would expect from a typical, old-fashioned kafenion. The whole place looks like it’s been set up to shoot a period movie. If you’ve never tried a Greek coffee, this is where you should order one. It’s also where Greek staple spirits like ouzo and raki should be sampled, preferably with a few simple mezedes (appetizers to share) like marinated anchovies, grilled sausages, or grilled peppers stuffed with cheese. Eat slowly, sip even slower, take in the vibe and make you may just end up with your own vintage Greek movie of memories.

Anyone up for a gelato next to the Lysicrates monument? At Da Vinci, the ice cream is freshly made on a daily basis, preservative-free and the line up of flavours is impressive, not to mention delicious. Our favourites are the forest fruits, lime and pineapple-melon combo. If you want to go Greek, try the yoghurt with honey and nuts or the traditional local spin on vanilla, kaimaki flavour. Kids will love the choice of cones, dipped in colourful sprinkles. They’ll probably opt for the more recognisable scoops like cookies and cream, vanilla from Madagascar, or banana toffee. There’s no place to sit at this Da Vinci location, but take your ice cream and hang around the Lysicrates monument. It’s easy to imagine a time when this area was dotted with similar statues, erected by art patrons as a symbol of their support for ancient Greek drama, staged at the nearby theatre of Dionysus. Literary aficionados will love the fact that Lord Byron used to hang out in this shady square, before it was covered with cafés, penning his poetry. 

Step inside and you’ll instantly realise why this café-bistro is named Melina. It’s dedicated to the life of Melina Mercouri, the legendary Greek minister of culture and actress best known for “Never on Sunday.” The owner, Andreas Martzaklis was originally a waiter at the café inside the Greek Parliament and maître d’ at the Prime Minister’s office. Having met Mercouri and got to know her well, Martzaklis felt the need to create a tribute to her accomplishments. Photographs of Melina and her friends hang on the walls and you can leaf through books about her life.  
Café Melina is open all day. The outdoor tables are set under one of the most photographed bougainvilleas in the city. By day, it’s always abuzz with people sipping coffee, devouring chocolate cake or a bowl of fresh fruit with yoghurt. In the evening, head indoors as the sweet sounds of jazz take over the softly lit bistro. 

Traditional tavernas in Plaka are a dime a dozen, but truth be told, not many of them are as authentic as they claim to be. Saita is a rare exception. This effortlessly quaint taverna sits on the quieter end of souvenir-lined Kydathineon Street. There are a handful of shaded tables on the pavement, overlooking the courtyard of the Byzantine Metamorphosis church. In the winter, the action moves down to the cosy basement, where Greek comfort food is turned out from the tiny kitchen. Their most famous speciality is bakaliaros skordalia (battered salt cod served with a fierce garlic dip), but everything is delicious. The grilled lamb chops, baked aubergine with feta, and crisp little meatballs are all highly recommended.