Once you’ve breathed the air on Evripidou Street, its distinctive scent will be hard to forget. The intriguing aroma comes from the mix of foods and spices wafting from the open-fronted stores. Nicknamed “the city’s stomach”, Evripidou Street runs through an area of central Athens where clocks and calendars seem to stand still, where different races and cultures mix with old Athens.
This is where the city’s central market, Varvakios Agora, begins. There hasn’t been a day that it has closed its doors since 1886. You’ll find all the essentials here: fruit, vegetables, spices, nuts, cold cuts, cured fish, herbs, cheese, eggs (lots of eggs), olives, meat of every shape, size, and provenance, and artisan products from all over Greece. But what we love are the hidden places on Evripidou Street.
Small, family-run businesses have been the lifeline of this street for decades, making it the first stop of any Athenian interested in food. It’s a block after the other historic street of central Athens, Aiolou, home to the legendary pastry shop Krinos, which serves divine loukoumades—fried dough balls drenched in honey and cinnamon. On the right side of the central market is Strounga tou Moria. This place sells any type of Greek cheese you can imagine, from feta, to myzithra, to kasseri, as well as yoghurt and butter. It’s been in the same location since 1886.
What lures you most onto Evripidou Street is the heady smell of spices on every corner. Bahar has been operating as a supplier of spices, herbs, essential oils, dried vegetables and grains since 1940. No matter what time you walk by, there will be a line of customers stretching into the street. With over 2,500 varieties of goods, it’s the favourite shop of some of the most famous chefs in Greece.
Right next door, is Gennaiopoulos, your go-to store for any type of nuts. The employees are always hovering with a scoop in hand, waiting to take your order.
Right before Evripidou meets Socratous Street, you’ll see a basement store called To Fthino Ypogio, a neighbourhood staple for 70 years. Inside, you’ll find a large selection of lentils, chickpeas, beans, and various kinds of pasta, all at amazingly reasonable prices.
Just as the spices and legumes come to an end, heaven for charcuterie junkies begins. The first stop is Arapian, which opened in 1935. This legendary shop introduced Athenians to flavours of the Middle East with its divine pastourma and sujuk sausages.
The third generation of this family-run business has taken the tradition a step further, and opened a mezedadiko (meze restaurant) called Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani, where you can get a taste of traditional Greek appetizers that are always accompanied by a glass of ouzo or tsipouro.
Try before you buy at Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani.
Photo: Amalia Kovaiou
Right across the street is Miran. Established in 1922, it sells all types of cold cuts, but also has a well-kept secret. There’s a patio in the back that functions as a sort of impromptu restaurant. Order whatever makes your mouth water from the shop’s windows and enjoy it on a platter at a table.
Beyond this point, Evripidou Street becomes a cultural melting pot, where Asia meets the Middle East. Be adventurous and venture into the Chinese wholesalers, Indian grocers and small barber shops.
After exploring Evripidou’s tastes and aromas, you’ll undoubtedly be hungry for more. Choose from two joints that serve the juiciest meat in town. Kir-Dimitris has been making classic souvlaki for almost 30 years. The place is also known for its fantastic biftekia (burger patties), made with the freshest of minced beef.
Telis has been called the King of Evripidou Street. Here, you must indulge in the grilled pork chops that have been devoured by prime ministers and astronauts alike.
Photo: Georgios Makkas