Courtesy: Thomas Gravanis

A well-narrated encounter with the sacred rock of Athens and its surroundings that will feed both your mind—and your taste buds.

By Alex King

Who will like it

Those who don’t just want to see the Acropolis, but understand its role in ancient Greek society and its enduring relationship with the rest of the city. Oh, and anyone with an appetite for authentic Greek treats.

Our guide

Despina Savvidou, a septuagenarian powerhouse who has been leading groups around Greece (in English, Greek and German) for nearly four decades. She’s living proof that an hour of pilates a day is the secret to eternal youth.

Personal highlights

Gleaning just how much Athens’ multi-layered history comes together in the one city: ancient and modern Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman - all jumbled up together. And learning how democratic ideals were deeply ingrained in the social fabric of ancient Athens (as long as you were male!).

Ground covered

A Greek breakfast in Koukaki before ascending the Acropolis hill (via the Odeon of Herodes Atticus). You’ll enter the Acropolis through the Propylaea, survey the Parthenon and other temples; then stroll Anafiotika and Plaka to wind up in Monastiraki (for more food).

Ancient pandemics and the changing face of the Parthenon

As we continue up the Acropolis hill, Despina reveals how plagues were a fairly common reality of ancient life. Evidently, a major epidemic occurred roughly every 50 years. While we don our masks and lean on science to keep the current Covid menace at bay, all the ancient Athenians had to rely on were offerings to the gods, such as Asclepious, the god of medicine. It sure puts things into perspective.

“Some ancient plagues killed up to half the citizens of Athens,” Despina tells us.

We reach the Propylaea and enter the ancient citadel of the Acropolis, where we enjoy a commanding view over Areopagus hill, to our north-west (also known as the Hill of Ares). Beneath the mighty Doric columns, we hear about the geometric and mathematical genius that has made the Parthenon one of the planet’s most admired architectural achievements. We also learn the secret to instantly spotting if any temple around the world is Greek by design (no spoilers).

“From a distance, you think the Parthenon is completely white; but when you come up here, you can clearly see the difference between the newer stones and the older ones,” Despina continues, gesturing towards a restored section of brighter, whiter column.

We begin our descent from the Acropolis and leave the ancient period behind. Despina explains how the Parthenon went on to be converted into a Christian church during the Byzantine period and then an Islamic mosque after the Ottoman empire captured the city. Seeing these transitions mirrored in the city below us drives the point home: Athens is a complex tangle of ancient Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and modern construction.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

What’s the verdict?

Here’s what my two friends, Freya from the UK and Alexia from Greece, had to say:
“You see the Acropolis every day as you walk around Athens, so you kind of forget about it. But after the tour, you really understand that the Parthenon is much more than an old building on top of a rock.”
“Despina is traditional in her approach but not boring in the slightest. She has great passion for her subject and is clearly still excited to share her stories; without getting hung up on insignificant details. I found that really captivating.”

Book this tour

Duration: 3 hours and 30 minutes (40 minutes walking time)
Cost: €120 (entrance fees and food included)
Time: 8:30 am