Older city guides often recommend the historic Vassilenas of Piraeus (established in 1920) and the Cretan restaurant Alatsi in the city centre. Alas, both are no longer in operation, but the former now occupies the latter’s address. The new Vassilenas is a sophisticated restaurant where you can expect to find fresh fish elegantly prepared, together with fine salads and creative desserts—and surprisingly good meat dishes, too. However, one unmissable classic stands out: the famous taramosalata (fish roe dip) made to the founder’s ‘secret’ recipe. This dish drew crowds to the original Piraeus restaurant and still amazes with its light, pearly colour, airy texture and smooth taste. Yes sir, this is the Rolls Royce of taramosalata.

Arguably the best address to sample the ‘new’ (but not too fussy) Greek cuisine, this big and bright restaurant is the closest Athens has to offer in terms of a grande brasserie. The menu is extensive, at times pricey and changes regularly. A light and delicious dish that’s less expensive and is always on the menu is the hortopita, a freshly baked pie with fragrant wild greens, served on a wooden slab with a cooling yoghurt dip. So healthy and simple.

It may sound a little odd to suggest feta cheese as a stand-alone dish, but that is precisely how Greeks enjoy it at every meal: lying on a plate, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with oregano. Kostarelos is the place to try it: this family-run dairy specialises in lusciously creamy yoghurt and white cheeses, especially feta. Here you can sample feta plain or in a freshly made sandwich or salad. You can even take some home, as this little Kolonaki bistro is merely a front for a Greek deli in the rear. Do try their carefully aged feta—extra tangy and spicy.

Tzatziki, the classic Greek yoghurt, garlic and cucumber dip, comes in two categories: the good homemade stuff and the store-bought. The quality of the yoghurt and the amount of garlic are what really make the difference. But you also have to know what company tzatziki likes to keep, namely fried potatoes, lamb chops and, most importantly, golden, battered slices of courgettes and aubergines. The best places to sample this repertoire are oikogeneiakes/exohikes psistaries, or family/countryside grill houses. Greeks come to these places around Athens in droves, crowded around tables of twenty friends, children and grandparents. There is always some chunky, garlicky tzatziki on every table. We recommend Agios Merkourios, right next to the former summer palace grounds of Tatoi, ideal for a digestive stroll (or nap) among the pine trees.