Photo: Stefanos Samios / Courtesy of Art Athina

Rub shoulders with the crème de la crème of the Athens art crowd, as we celebrate the 30th anniversary of Art Athina, the country’s biggest contemporary art fair, and interview some of the city’s key gallery owners.

By Paul Pervanas

Art Athina 2023 takes place at Zappeion Megaron on 14-17 September. Click here for more info.

“There is nothing new in art.” Whether standing in front of a sophisticated digital installation of contemporary art, or bingeing through this week’s Netflix Original, we’ve all been witnesses to various degrees of familiarity and déjà vu in every form of content we consume. In the art world, parthenogenesis (to flex our Greek influence) is probably the biggest of asks. Is there such a thing as originality? To some (or to most) the question has already been answered: No, there is no such thing as a truly original work of art. To be fair, however, we only gave you part of the original quote by Anton Chekhov. The whole thing goes like this: “There is nothing new in art except talent.” And there’s the wildcard; talent.

Through the ages, Athens has certainly seen its share of talent applied in the arts, in some forms more than others. In order to abstain from yet another overture to Athens’ past—glorious as it may be—we’ll delicately tiptoe over the Parthenon, Sophocles, and the rest of the ancient gang and focus on the people who shape the here and now. And when it comes to contemporary art affairs in Athens, our “here and now” wouldn’t have been the same without the talent and the work of the people behind Art Athina, the country’s biggest visual arts fair and one of the oldest ones in Europe.

A Contemporary Art Meeting

Established in 1993 by the Hellenic Art Galleries Association, the first edition of Art Athina was titled “A Contemporary Art Meeting” and featured a total of 18 galleries from Greece. This year’s edition (2023, a 30-year anniversary event) hosts 67 art spaces from all over the world, from Athens to Paris, New Mexico and Los Angeles, and features separate sections for independent art spaces, video projects, educational programmes for kids and more. “Each year, within the space of a few days Art Athina offers its visitors a crash course on the latest trends in visual arts, inside looks at the works of renowned international artists, as well as the chance to come face to face with some historical pieces of art,” says Mrs Yianna Grammatopoulou, President of the Hellenic Art Galleries Association and owner of the Ekfrasi - Yianna Grammatopoulou Art Gallery. Regarding the latter, in its 30-year history Art Athina has showcased works by Jannis Kounellis, Le Corbusier, David Hockney, Costas Varotsos (The Runner), Andy Warhol, Yannis Gaitis, and Opy Zouni, to name a few from a very very long list.

Athenians queuing up for a dose of contemporary art at Zappeion Megaron, 2022.

Photo: Stefanos Samios / Courtesy of Art Athina

In a city that is synonymous with constant change, Art Athina has put its ability to adapt on display on various occasions. The financial crisis of 2010 brought a mushrooming of smaller, alternative art spaces (Greeks know well how to pour their hardships into artistic expression), which along with the daring curations of the city’s long-established galleries, put the spotlight on Athens' creative fertility. It was in 2017, when the international exhibition of contemporary art Documenta chose Athens as a co-hosting city, that thousands of artists, curators, and art lovers were drawn to our parts over a period of 100 days. Perhaps, it’s no coincidence that 2017 was also the year that Art Athina decided it was time for a much-needed change. The art fair was rebranded and given a fresh direction. “Art is not neutral to each era’s social climate. On the contrary, it’s a vital and integral part of it. The COVID pandemic had a huge effect on us, as was the case everywhere. But we kept things going by moving the art fair online, gaining a wider audience both inside and outside of Greece,” says Mrs Grammatopoulou.

In addition to the invaluable task of Art Athina, Athens has received a much-needed boost from both government and privately driven initiatives during the last decade. The long-awaited National Museum of Contemporary Art found its home in the area of Koukaki after a period of several false starts, Onassis Stegi continues to push the envelope in contemporary art affairs, NEON transformed part of the Old Tobacco Factory into a beautiful exhibition hall, Renzo Piano gifted our city with a state-of-the-art beacon of sustainability, and a red-hot art district sprouted on the former industrial blocks of Piraeus.

A for Art. A for Athina.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

Meet the Athens Aesthetes

Next to big benefactors and magnate patrons, it’s the art gallery owners of Athens who shape the city’s modern cultural identity, one thought-provoking exhibition at a time. We reached out to the crème de la crème of the local contemporary art scene and asked them about Athens, art, and everything in between. Read on to discover Athens through the eyes of its key art players.

Yianna Grammatopoulou

President of the Hellenic Art Galleries Association / Ekfrasi - Yianna Grammatopoulou Art Gallery

If Athens were a work of art, what kind of art would it be?
A complex, multi faceted sculpture, whose each curve would disclose a different aspect of the city.
Is graffiti an art form? What is your favourite mural in Athens?
One of the newest ones in the city found in Metaxourgio and titled “So Many Books, So Little Time”, by SimpleG. A timely remark on the online addiction of our times.
Favourite past-meets-present corner in the city?
The streets around Syntagma Square, where Ernst Ziller-designed marvels coexist with relics of the city’s Ancient Walls and 20th century architecture.
How has the local art scene evolved during the last 30 years of Art Athina?
In a very vibrant manner. The city is dotted with small clusters of creativity, as a great number of galleries and art spaces have popped up in the most unexpected areas. There’s now a very refreshing conversation that’s taking place between these younger spaces and the more traditional local art scene.
Where is your gallery located? Why choose this neighbourhood?
At the Valaoritou pedestrian street in Kolonaki. I love how it’s just a breath away from the heart of Athens, Syntagma Square.

Mrs Yianna Grammatopoulou.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

What would you say is the most inspiring thing about Athens?
Its countless different facades. Its timelessness.
Any secret hangout spots you're willing to share?
Take a walk along Valaoritou and stop for a coffee break at Jimmy’s, or for after work drinks at Il Gatto on Voukourestiou Street.
What is your most memorable Art Athina moment that comes to mind?
Our first post-COVID edition in 2022. Everyone was beyond excited to be in the same space again. Every day, people were queueing up for the shows. It was a testament to the influence that Art Athina has had on the art-loving crowd of the city during the last three decades.
What's the most unusual or creative use of art that you've come across in everyday life in Athens?
I absolutely love the artworks found in the Athens Metro stations. I believe that even a fleeting glimpse of a work of art has the power to plant a seed in the heart of the hasty commuter.

"I believe that even a fleeting glimpse of a work of art has the power to plant a seed in the heart of the hasty commuter."

Antonis Kourkoulos

Art Athina General Coordinator

If Athens were a work of art, what kind of art would it be?
A huge interactive installation, inviting the public to engage with it and ultimately become a part of it.
Is graffiti an art form? What is your favourite mural in Athens?
Of course it is. My favourite mural is “She Who Protects” by Aristeidis Lappas on Panepistimiou Street, optimally seen from Omonia Square.
Favourite past-meets-present corner in the city?
Kotzia Square. From the area’s archaeological site and the gorgeous building of the National Bank designed by Mario Botta, to the surrounding 1980s office buildings and the neoclassical gems.
How has the local art scene evolved during the last 30 years of Art Athina?
There’s been a wonderful booming of galleries and independent art spaces in every Athenian neighbourhood. Bigger players, such as organisations and institutions like the National Museum of Contemporary Art, Stegi, and of course, NEON, are pushing the envelope every season.
What would you say is the most inspiring thing about Athens?
Its openness and its ability to surprise you at every turn.
Any secret hangout spots you're willing to share?
A walk around Neos Kosmos and Tavros, both unassuming Athenian neighbourhoods dotted with quiet taverns.
What's the most unusual or creative use of art that you've come across in everyday life in Athens?
All that your eyes can see during a walk along Fokionos Negri and the narrow streets around Kypseli.

Mr Antonis Kourkoulos.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

Rebecca Camhi

Rebecca Camhi Gallery

If Athens were a work of art, what kind of art would it be?
It would be a sculpture, a really odd one with a mix of all sorts of styles, shapes and forms given that the city is itself a mix of past, present, old, new, fresh, and decrepit.
Is graffiti an art form? What is your favourite mural in Athens?
Sadly, I think that graffiti shows a lack of respect for public spaces. Visitors might see this as an amusing element, but it's very different for locals. Busy Athens has little room for extra information. Though I do love a recent mural which is “The Kiss” by Ilias Papailiakis at Avdi Square.
Favourite past-meets-present corner in the city?
There is an old school bakery in Keramikos where they make fresh bread, cookies and koulouria (sesame bread crowns) on the premises, every day. Next to it is a very modern apartment complex where the President of the Hellenic Republic resides.
How has the local art scene evolved during the last 30 years of Art Athina?
I opened my gallery almost 30 years ago, so I’ve really lived through the change. There are lots of independent art spaces, open artist studios, all in all a wonderful growth of the local scene.
Where is your gallery located? Why choose this neighbourhood?
In Metaxourgio, a rather challenging area which will hopefully pick up. Personally, however, I do more than hope—I actively help upgrade the area, prompting the municipality in that direction. I chose it because it’s very close to downtown Athens, and because it was possible to have a larger space on a smaller budget.

Mrs Rebecca Camhi.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

What would you say is the most inspiring thing about Athens?
The weather, its blue skies, its potential to become an exceptional city provided that we realise the vital turning point which it’s currently at. Important decisions have to be made with regards to the local housing/short term rentals/hotels ratio in the city, so that we safeguard the Athenian way of life for visitors to experience.
Any secret hangout spots you're willing to share?
Seychelles restaurant in Keramikos is a favourite. Diporto koutouki is one of the last authentic places to eat in the city. Martinos in Monastiraki is the best antique shop in town. It also hosts a contemporary space at the top floor called Melas Martinos. A definite must-see.
What is your most memorable Art Athina moment that comes to mind?
The most fun was when a lot of my old school classmates met at my booth by coincidence. It was a small reunion of sorts! There’s always a good chance that you’ll run into old friends and fellow art lovers in Art Athina—that’s what it’s all about!

"Martinos in Monastiraki is the best antique shop in town. It also hosts a contemporary space at the top floor called Melas Martinos. A definite must-see."

Arsen Kalfayan and Roupen Kalfayan

Kalfayan Galleries

If Athens were a work of art, what kind of art would it be?
Jackson Pollock meets Yannis Tsarouchis and Arte Povera.
Is graffiti an art form? What is your favourite mural in Athens?
The unpretentious graffiti on old shop roller shutters.
Favourite past-meets-present corner in the city?
Walking around Athens and entering the National Garden. From the city’s hustle and bustle to the serene atmosphere of the garden, in the company of sculptures and the rich flora and fauna, a journey into history.
How has the local art scene evolved during the last 30 years of Art Athina?
The number of art spaces has increased and there is a stronger connection with the international art scene and market. There is a broader audience for contemporary art in comparison to 30 years ago. Art Athina has helped significantly towards the growth and promotion of the contemporary art scene. It has also made the local contemporary art scene more competitive, which is always a good thing.
Where is your gallery located? Why choose this neighbourhood?
Our gallery is located in Kolonaki, at the heart of Athens. We believe that art galleries should be located in central and not in remote and so-called “hip” areas of a city, and that they should be easily accessible to all, connoisseurs and not.
What would you say is the most inspiring thing about Athens?
The Acropolis.
Any secret hangout spots you're willing to share?
If we do, then it won’t be a secret anymore.
What is your most memorable Art Athina moment that comes to mind?
Our very first entry with a solo exhibition by Tassos Pavlopoulos.
What's the most unusual or creative use of art that you've come across in everyday life in Athens?
The Greek periptero (kiosk) is an art installation in itself. Sadly, it’s becoming a thing of the past.

Mr Roupen Kalfayan.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

Marina Vranopoulou

Dio Horia Gallery

If Athens were a work of art, what kind of art would it be?
It would be an embroidery piece by The Callas with bright pop-folk colours, crafted by their mother and aunt, with references to Athens’ history. An aesthetic that defines their work.
Is graffiti an art form? What is your favourite mural in Athens?
My favourite mural is one of the latest I’ve stumbled upon during my Athens strolls; “The Kiss” by Ilias Papailiakis at Avdi Square. The very definition of when graffiti becomes an art form.
Favourite past-meets-present corner in the city?
Not a corner, but a view; that of Athens from atop Acropolis hill. Ancient monuments, decrepit houses, tv antennas and solar water heaters, cars and pedestrians, blending into the melting pot that is Athens.
How has the local art scene evolved during the last 30 years of Art Athina?
Athens has definitely put itself on the art world map during the last decades, especially after Documenta 14 back in 2017. A sort of renaissance is taking place, as art is exhibited in daring new locations, younger curators are stepping forward with notable results, and the city’s art map is being reshuffled.

Where is your gallery located? Why choose this neighbourhood?
In 2022 we moved Dio Horia to the Acropolis area, just a stone’s throw from the Acropolis Museum, in a Late Antiquity villa urbana of the 4th century CE. The new space carries a deeply inspiring blend of ancient and contemporary, and along with the ever-present energy of the goddess Athena it makes for an ideal setting.
What would you say is the most inspiring thing about Athens?
Its people. The good ones, the bad ones, the typical Athenian characters, the freshly made locals and the cheerful travellers.
Any secret hangout spots you're willing to share?
I love the unpretentious beauty and relaxed setting of Okeanida beach in Vouliagmeni. It’s a year-round favourite, but most especially during winter.
What is your most memorable Art Athina moment that comes to mind?
My favourite Art Athina edition was in 2022. After two years of lockdowns people were once again queueing up for contemporary art. The mood in Zappeion was loose and festive, it felt like hope was back on track.
What's the most unusual or creative use of art that you've come across in everyday life in Athens?
Witnessing children’s art outside of a school’s setting.

"My favourite Art Athina edition was in 2022. After two years of lockdowns it felt like hope was back on track."

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Drupal\Core\Theme\ThemeManager->render('paragraph', Array) (Line: 422)
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twig_render_template('core/themes/classy/templates/field/field.html.twig', Array) (Line: 384)
Drupal\Core\Theme\ThemeManager->render('field', Array) (Line: 422)
Drupal\Core\Render\Renderer->doRender(Array, ) (Line: 201)
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Drupal\Core\Template\TwigExtension->escapeFilter(Object, Array, 'html', NULL, 1) (Line: 262)
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Twig\Template->displayWithErrorHandling(Array, Array) (Line: 378)
Twig\Template->display(Array) (Line: 390)
Twig\Template->render(Array) (Line: 55)
twig_render_template('themes/custom/tiaa_theme/templates/content/node--article.html.twig', Array) (Line: 384)
Drupal\Core\Theme\ThemeManager->render('node', Array) (Line: 422)
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Drupal\page_cache\StackMiddleware\PageCache->lookup(Object, 1, 1) (Line: 82)
Drupal\page_cache\StackMiddleware\PageCache->handle(Object, 1, 1) (Line: 49)
Asm89\Stack\Cors->handle(Object, 1, 1) (Line: 48)
Drupal\Core\StackMiddleware\ReverseProxyMiddleware->handle(Object, 1, 1) (Line: 51)
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A Contemporary Art Meeting

Meet the Athens Aesthetes

Yianna Grammatopoulou

President of the Hellenic Art Galleries Association / Ekfrasi - Yianna Grammatopoulou Art Gallery

"I believe that even a fleeting glimpse of a work of art has the power to plant a seed in the heart of the hasty commuter."

Antonis Kourkoulos

Art Athina General Coordinator

Rebecca Camhi

Rebecca Camhi Gallery

"Martinos in Monastiraki is the best antique shop in town. It also hosts a contemporary space at the top floor called Melas Martinos. A definite must-see."

Arsen Kalfayan and Roupen Kalfayan

Kalfayan Galleries

Marina Vranopoulou

Dio Horia Gallery

"My favourite Art Athina edition was in 2022. After two years of lockdowns it felt like hope was back on track."

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